During the two years we lived in Bulgaria, my wife and I regularly left our home in Sofia to drive into the countryside, exploring picturesque villages and visiting ethnographical museums. We were eager to learn everything we could about Bulgarian history and culture. I was constantly researching new places to visit.
On one extended December weekend, my wife and I traveled to Burgas, on the Black Sea coast. Despite the cold breezes and cloudy skies, we drove all the way south to the Turkish border and then back to Sozopol, an ancient seaside town that serves as a crowded resort in the summer months.
We fell entranced by Sozopol's wooden houses. By chance, we arrived there on St. Nicholas Day, which we learned was a festival honoring the protector of sailors and fishermen. As we sat down for a fish meal, we heard the loud beat of musical instruments. The town residents were noisy and happy in their holiday celebrations.
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