The village was nestled
in green foothills not far from the Greek border. Quaint wooden farmhouses and
ramshackle barns. Cultivated fields of summer crops; fenced-off pastures
spotted with dairy cows and goats. Grassy meadows bordered by colorful
wildflowers. In the distance, snow-capped peaks below a cloudless blue sky. The
Rhodope Mountains, scenic and bucolic, home to some of Bulgaria’s oldest
citizens. One of them was waiting to see me.
“My grandfather is
ninety-five-years old,” Anna reminded me as we drove south on the narrow
highway. “He’s half blind, walks with a cane, and doesn’t hear very well, but
he still has his wits about him. He rises at the crack of dawn to milk his cow
and tends his vegetable garden in the afternoons. And he eats a lot of
yoghurt,” she added with a laugh.
“I can’t believe I’m
here, that I’ve flown all the way from Tel Aviv just to meet him.”
“He’s very eager to see
you.” Anna continued to talk excitedly as she drove, but I remained mostly silent,
keeping my eyes focused on the beautiful countryside.
I was looking forward to
meeting him as well, but I had a growing feeling of trepidation ahead of my
visit to his home. Why had I come to Bulgaria? Had I made a mistake? Was I on a
wild goose chase that would make me a laughingstock when I returned to my
office in a few days’ time? I shook my head, shocked at my impulsive decision
to come.
Anna slowed down when we
passed the sign announcing our arrival in Gela, the village that was our
destination. A minute later, she parked the car. I got out, took a deep breath
of the fresh mountain air, and followed her up a gravel path towards a wooden
farmhouse that had seen better days. We took off our shoes outside the door and
went inside.
It took several minutes
for my eyes to fully acclimate to the dark interior. Outside it was a warm June
day, but inside the farmhouse I shivered. The unlit fireplace at the side of an
open kitchen made me wonder how warm the room was in winter. The Rhodopes were
ski territory, I had learned. Visions of snow-covered slopes brought back
memories of the ski trip I took with friends after finishing my compulsory
service in the Israeli army.
“Sit here,” Anna said,
pointing at a low bench near the dining room table. “My mother is probably
shopping in Smolyan. I'll go see if my grandfather is awake.”
I sat down and looked
around the rustic, homey room. Watercolor paintings of green landscapes hung on
one wall; a window opened to real-life vistas of the same. All the furniture
was wooden, apparently homemade. I rested my hands on a colorful embroidered
tablecloth, kicked my backpack under the table, and fidgeted as I waited for
Anna’s grandfather. All I knew was that he had something to give me, and I
didn’t have a clue what it could be.
Read the rest of the story on The Writing Disorder.
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