Climbing Mt. Vihren

I had never heard the word ‘scrambling’ before. In the dictionary, ‘scrambling’ is defined as “to move or climb quickly but with difficulty, often using your hands to help you.” This was certainly the case when I struggled up the rough, steep slopes of Mt. Vihren, in Bulgaria’s Pirin Mountains.

It was the second day of an eight-day "Hiking trek in the Pirin and Rila mountains”. The trip was organized by Traventuria, a Bulgarian company with a well-earned excellent reputation for its hikes and tours. The planned route for the first day had been changed due to heavy cloud cover on the higher peaks. Instead, we took an easier hike through pristine pine forests, at one point reaching Hut Yavorov at an elevation of 1,740 meters above sea level.

That first day’s hike was for me, anything but easy. Making my way up the forest paths, my leg muscles ached, the pain increasing the higher we climbed. “I think I bit off more than I can chew,” I said to myself. Was I really fit enough to do this? Was I capable of climbing Bulgaria’s highest mountains?

“The only thing that prepares you for hiking, is hiking,” my fellow hikers told me. I persevered and picked up my pace. When we reached the end of our ascent, I took a deep breath. I can do this, I realized. By the next day, luckily, I barely felt any discomfort in my muscles. I was good to go for the day’s mountain climb.

We began to climb

Mt. Vihren is the highest peak of the Pirin Mountains, the second highest in Bulgaria. Our overnight stay had been at Bansko, a small Bulgarian town at the foot of the Pirins better known for its winter proximity to some of the country’s most popular ski slopes. We set off through green meadows filled with brilliant wildflowers. We followed well-marked paths which ran through fields of huge boulders. Balancing oneself on the uneven stones was extremely difficult. We began to climb.

The higher we went, the thicker the fog. We made our way up the path in the reduced visibility. Pockets of snow marked the slopes of the nearby mountains. It was getting colder. Windier.

We began the final ascent. This part of the mountain was fully exposed to the elements. It was impossible to see anything beyond the white cloud that surrounded us. The climb became harder. I caught my breath and climbed ten meters before stopping to again take deep breaths. Was it the lack of oxygen? Or was it my age that was slowing me down? I can do this, I told myself. I pressed on, ever upward.

Up the mountain on all fours

I wore four layers – a T-shirt, fleece, heavy winter coat, and a windbreaker jacket which I had purchased in Sofia before the hike. Luckily, I also bought a pair of gloves. They played an invaluable role as I grabbed one sharp boulder after another. I struggled up the steep slope on all fours.

A thick metal cable ran alongside the path. I grabbed on, pulling myself upward. Holding on for dear life. A few final pulls and I reached the top. I joined my hiking companions near a sign announcing that we had reached Mt. Vihren’s peak, at 2,914 meters (9,560 ft) above sea level.

I had made it to the top. Despite the strong wind, the near-freezing temperature, and my aching muscles - I had climbed Mt. Vihren!

For a moment, the wind calmed down and I removed one layer of clothing. We took a group photo, had a quick snack, and prepared for our descent, which luckily would be down an easier route.

And then it began to rain.

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Hiking in Bulgaria - Trek of a Lifetime