The “Pogacha”

We are celebrating the birth of Nikola, the son of one of my wife’s colleagues. We are in the Sofia apartment where the newborn has been kept at home with his mother for 40 days, a period in which only the immediate family has been allowed to visit. But now the baby is no longer at risk from evil spirits. And a special round loaf bread has been baked for the occasion. The pogacha.

During our two-year stay in Bulgaria, we witnessed many of the local customs but this was the first time we had been invited into a Bulgarian home to be part of such an intimate ceremony. Usually, only women - family members and friends - are invited to this special ceremony. Traditionally men are supposed to leave the home, but on this occasion, I am invited to stay and along with a few other men, wait in a separate room.

The pogacha is a traditional “tear and share” bread used in many Bulgarian ceremonies and celebrations. It is not unique to Bulgaria as the baking of this special bread is also a tradition in Macedonia, Serbia, Croatia, and elsewhere. Each place makes its own version, with a variety of textures and flavors. In Bulgaria, the pogacha represents the home and hospitality and the bread is baked to mark different holiday celebrations. Offering a pogacha with salt is a customary way to greet dignitaries.

Although the customs surrounding the birth of a baby in Bulgaria had their origins many centuries ago, and most of them have not survived, there are some traditions which made their way to modern times. Many of these are customs still followed by women after giving birth. Traditionally, during the 40-day period the mother is considered “unclean” and as a result, she and her baby are at great risk from the evil spirits. Today, however, it is more of a feeling of protecting the baby from germs and keeping him safe.

In the main room of her colleague’s home, my wife witnesses first-hand the role of the pogacha in the celebration. The pogacha was baked by a woman relative or friend – the only condition being that both her parents are alive. After drinking wine or whiskey, and wishing each other “Nazdrave” – to health – the pogacha is covered with a cloth. The women then place money, bills or coins, onto the cloth, and the corners of the cloth are gathered and tied in a tight knot. This is to ensure that the baby will not grow up to be a spendthrift. The knotted cloth is then placed out of reach on the top of a cabinet.

At this point, the mother is led to a chair while holding Nikola. Two women lift the pogacha over the mother’s head and a clean cloth is held to catch the crumbs. Again, the parents of these women must be alive for them to be part of this ceremony. The bread is then broken over the mother’s head and pieces are distributed to the guests. Each guest offers a blessing to the baby upon receiving their share of the bread.

The pogacha is very tasty as are the other refreshments. Meats, cheeses, and pastries. The sweet banitsa pastry with pumpkin and walnuts, made by the 87-year-old great-grandmother of little Nikola, is particularly scrumptious. Nikola is her fifth great-grandchild.

In the next room, I am also enjoying the refreshments, which include beer and rakia as well. After much merriment, we wish the proud parents and young Nikola health and happiness. Nazdrave!